Altering a recipe by Steven Raichlen. I love ox tail. I needed to rescue the sauce, which I had been neglecting and I'd found a package of tail bones in the reduced meats bin. The sauce (now over 7 years old) needed some bright additions and boiling. Put the tails in a pot with a lid, a can of chicken broth, an onion, some garlic, simmered for 90 minutes. While that's happening I get out the sauce, three-quarters of a quart, covered with a layer of olive oil, dump it in another pot, add tamarind paste, enchilada sauce, dregs of red wine, some anchovy paste, an herb bundle and a small onion that was reduced to liquid, with some soy sauce, in the blender. Because of the tamarind paste I stir constantly, bring to a low boil and pasteurize for 30 minutes. Start the grill, just a few chunks of mesquite charcoal, and when it's ready I sear the tails on both ends such that the marrow surfaces are caramelized. The sauce in a puddle around. Sour-dough for sopping. A cucumber drizzled with balsamic. Let the bones rest for 10 minutes, molten marrow is a health risk. I meant to go to town, to deal with the garbage, but I read another Gruber novel, "Valley Of Bones", then read about ox tails most of the afternoon. But the dinner, my god, was so good, heart-stoppingly, that my brio was restored, and I did a single pull-up on the beam that runs through the dining area. I'm sports challenged (not that I'm out of shape, but that I really don't like to compete) and other than walks I don't do much. Firewood, which is a major thing for me and requires physicality; walking the driveway mid-winter with a pack, certainly another. I'm in good shape actually, most wouldn't really chose to live this way, so close to the bone, but I like it. It's very close to real. The sound is actual, and the colors are correct. Almost real. What does that say? What is real? Some dying bats?
Sunday, July 12, 2009
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