Mississippi delta road houses, in the 1980's, were still pretty rough, but in my education of them, I was always helping Big Roy cook. Of course I was always called Uncle Tom, or White Boy, or some such nonsense, but Roy never let it get out of hand. The music was great, and the musicians were salt of the earth. One garishly painted cinder-block road house per town, in the delta, known by the name of the town, Sidon House, Cruger House, Tchula House. That red house over yonder. What brought it to mind, the radio, that slack guitar, Mississippi John Hurt. "Avalon", his home town, and I remembered going there once, to pick up some chickens. Buffingtons, or something, they had feathers growing at their ankles, and he stopped me in the yard. I was buying chickens from Mississippi John Hurt's mother. Not only that, but as I was to learn later, he allowed that I was pretty cool, for a skinny white guy. D called up this morning, he's done teaching for the semester, and wanted to come over. He brought beer and cheese and rolls and we discussed several hundred topics over the course of the afternoon. Good conversation is a lovely thing. After he left I went out for a walk on the old logging road that runs north down to Upper Twin. There's a very good morel area there, I found a few, and signs of more coming. I don't have a kitchen scale, but I need to get one. It doesn't have to be very precise, I was just curious about the quantity of wild mushrooms I eat in a year. I'd picked up a head of celery, because B said it was good in hash, and I figured to eat most of the stalks filled with peanut butter; I disavow everything. and he was correct, it is perfect in hash, a small amount, one stalk in a serving for one. Adds a vegetative crunch. There was a package of veal, in the remaindered bin, sliced thin. I fried them in butter, with black pepper and watercress, and made a grinder, whatever you call that sandwich, with avocado, and bitter greens. I made a small hash from the leftovers, a small Yukon Gold, minced and fried, part of a shallot, a stalk of celery, and the veal. I buy local eggs, and they stand up nicely. Any of the various hashes are improved with a yolk of egg. God's own sauce. I like to cover this, with a reduction I think of as Morel Sauce. The problem is hiding the bodies. Granted, given, let's assume...
Wednesday, May 7, 2014
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